I’d been feeling the call to visit the Central Coast of California on what I dubbed my Big Sur Road Trip. It felt as if I was being drawn there. I wanted to experience the magic of Big Sur, hike, and explore the California coastal redwoods.
Big Sur encompasses a region of the Central California Coast spanning about 90 miles between Carmel-by-the-Sea (at the northern end) and San Simeon (at the southern end). The area is known for beautiful beaches, rugged cliffs, and picturesque coastal views.
I began my drive through the Greater Los Angeles Area passing numerous cities I’d heard of but had never actually been to. It made me feel like I was learning a bit more about LA. The morning started with a light warm tropical rain, which enhanced the beauty of my surroundings. The colors of the land were more dramatic, and the atmosphere felt calmer, and more peaceful. I relished the experience as I drove past the colorful mountains, and cloud-filled sky, being present with my surroundings.
Part of the fun of any good road trip is making space for the unknown and exploring along the way. That, and of course great snacks…a must have for any true road trip.
Somewhere in the Greater Los Angeles Area I stopped at a café situated next to a sprawling lake to enjoy an iced coffee. I took a stretch break and meandered along the lake path with my drink in hand creating a memory that continues to stick with me. Moments like this that are organic and unplanned are the small details that become woven together to make up the fabric of the greater experience.
San Luis Obispo
After driving through diverse scenery spanning across farmland, open spaces filled with large oak trees, city life, and sprawling coastal views I eventually arrived in San Luis Obispo.
The Madonna Inn
My first stop was the Madonna Inn—a magical place I’d heard of and was curious to explore. As I approached the inn, I passed a small flower garden filled with colorful dahlias (one of my favorite flowers) which was an unexpected treat.
I headed inside to the Copper Cafe and took a seat at the bar. The café had lots of intricate details like bright red ornate seating, goblets to drink out of, pink table salt, wall art and stain glass embellishments, making it a charming and unique place to visit. I ordered a veggie sandwich with sweet potato fries, and it was delicious.
Something about sitting in this iconic place, on this road trip alone, doing exactly what I wanted made me feel like I could do anything I put my mind to. I love the kind of thoughts this experience instilled in me. I’ve often found this type of empowerment happens when we’re in alignment with our soul, doing the things in life we are drawn to do.
Afterwards I decided to explore, and that was fun because the Madonna Inn is a unique property with a lot of history, and plenty to see. Aside from the Copper Cafe there is Alex Madonna’s Gold Rush Steak House, a very pink and opulent restaurant offering a fancier dining experience in the evenings. There is also a small bar located just outside of the restaurant, as well as a grand fireplace that was lit even though it wasn’t cold out, adding to the overall charm and feel of the inn.
If you decide to wander upstairs you will find two gift shops to browse in. One shop had a lot of gift and souvenir items, and I found a cozy sweatshirt that I couldn’t pass up. The other shop had a bunch of vintage clothing items making it fun to browse through.
Next stop…
Downtown San Luis Obispo
A very short drive from the Madonna Inn you will find a cute downtown area filled with lots of little shops you can pop into and explore, and places to grab a bite to eat. I stumbled across a crystal shop and a boutique clothing store where I came out with a few good finds.
Beware parking tickets are a thing here! In the downtown area there are a lot of spots that look like you can park there, but you can’t. Remember to pay close attention to the signs anywhere you decide to park—that’s all I will say.
Morro Bay
My next stop was to watch the sunset at Morro Rock—a large volcanic plug estimated to be 23 million years old. Let me tell you, this spot is popular for a reason.
I stood at the edge of the sea watching the sun reflect a spectrum of warm hues off the water as it set beyond Morro Rock. The sky was filled with birds playfully sailing through the air, while others dove into the water. I could hear sea lions somewhere off in the distance. The bay was full of life that evening. Being in that space and soaking it all in felt pretty incredible. The images and the feelings of being there seem as though they have been permanently carved into my memory.
Although I was technically alone, there were people around also enjoying the sights, and I engaged in a conversation about the sunset with an older gentleman standing nearby. He reminded me how simply connecting with others makes us feel less alone.
Cambria
After watching the sunset, I left Morro Bay and headed to Cambria to check in to my hotel. Although not a far drive (about 30 minutes) one thing to keep in mind is that the two-lane highway connecting Morro Bay and Cambria does not have streetlights and there isn’t a lot of civilization around making it pretty dark on the road after sunset.
I checked into my Cambria hotel and had a peaceful night sleep by the sea.
The next morning I woke up and opened the shutters on the window of my hotel room to reveal a partial ocean view! It was a lovely surprise! After having coffee and doing a bit of writing with the ocean as a backdrop I packed up and checked out of my hotel.
In Cambria there is a row of hotels along Moonstone Beach Drive directly across from the ocean, making it convenient to walk from your accommodation across the street to the boardwalk.
Moonstone Beach Boardwalk
The approximately one-mile-long boardwalk runs parallel to the ocean and is a must-do activity when visiting Cambria. It offers a leisurely stroll packed with beautiful coastal views the entire way.
After walking along the boardwalk for a while I followed a set of steps leading down to the ocean and put my feet in the cool water. I took in the natural healing properties of the sandy Earth and ocean water. While standing there I felt guided to do energy work on myself.
I was standing there with my feet in the water when a huge mass of birds (there were so many of them) took off from a nearby rock and flew overhead and down the beach. I watched them soar by me, and in that moment my inner thoughts were loud, and I heard myself thinking it feels so good to be me in this moment! It was a moment of inner truth springing up from the depths of somewhere deep within me. I was truly enjoying my experience.
Afterwards, I found a rock to sit on and enjoy the sea and my surroundings while looking for shells and colorful rocks in the sand below.
Cambria is a quiet town where I felt like I could relax, recharge, and had plenty of space to think. It was a great place to stop on my Big Sur road trip.
Downtown Cambria
A mile or two from the strip of hotels across from the ocean you’ll find downtown Cambria (look for Main Street), which is filled with shops and various places to grab a bite to eat. I stopped at Linn’s for a slice of olallieberry pie and walked around for a little while exploring the area.
Then it was time to head to my next destination…
Carmel-by-the-Sea
Ordinarily, I could have taken Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) from Cambria to Carmel-by-the-Sea. However, there was a road closure (which I was aware of ahead of time) leaving me with a longer, less scenic route to my destination.
Tip: Always and I repeat always check for road closures, state park, and hiking trail closures before visiting the Big Sur area.
Upon arriving in Carmel-by-the-Sea I parked in a public parking lot near the beach and headed straight towards the ocean. The first thing I noticed was all the beautiful soft white sand because it was much lighter and finer than what I’m used to experiencing at the Southern California beaches (which are great too). I found a spot in the sand and enjoyed sitting at the beach for a while soaking in the fresh air and watching groups of people playing along the shore.
Afterwards, I walked around exploring, grabbed an iced coffee and dessert, and spent time taking pictures of the area. Carmel-by-the-Sea has an assortment of diverse shops to wander into and eateries.
Pacific Grove
Next, I headed to the neighboring city of Pacific Grove, where I would be staying for the next few days. Driving there I felt like I was in a faraway place (which I guess technically I was) when the road became shrouded by a canopy of tall unfamiliar trees that also began to border the sides of the road.
According to my navigation system I was getting close to my destination. I slowed my car to a crawl when I encountered a deer wandering around in the road. It would be the first of several I would see around town, and was a magical welcome.
After checking in to my hotel I grabbed a pizza at a local place with good reviews, and then headed across the street to a grocery store to pick up crackers, cheese and two bottles of port to have my own personal port tasting because why not?
Point Lobos State Natural Reserve
The following morning I got up early and headed to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve to do some much anticipated coastal hiking.
This area is a true gem with old growth trees, spectacular coastal views, and several hiking trails to choose from.
The entrance fee was $10 and if you go to another state park on the same day (which I ended up doing) the entrance fee is valid there too. Upon entering the park you’ll drive a short distance before reaching the first parking lot (which isn’t very large). Don’t be alarmed, there is another parking lot about one minute away with a restroom.
The Cypress Grove Trail
The Cypress Grove Trail is an easy and enjoyable hike. This .8-mile loop trail winds through a grove of Monterey cypress trees, with fantastic views of the ocean along the way.
The North Shore Trail
Located next to the Cypress Grove Trail is the North Shore Trail. This trail offered a lot of beautiful coastal views, uneven pathways at points which made the trail fun, and plenty of Monterey cypress trees—well known to this area. I ventured out on this trail for a while before finding a stopping point and heading back the way I came.
When I left, I headed down the Pacific Coast Highway and got to admire the beautiful rugged coastal cliff views which are so iconic to this area.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
My first stop along this route was Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, but I missed the entrance due to road construction. I turned into one of the next entrances and pulled into the parking lot of the ranger station (just off the main road) and went inside. At the ranger station I took pictures of the trail maps, got all the info on the hiking situation (which was convenient since part of the trail was closed), and was pointed in the right direction for the state park. There were also clean restrooms. Ironically or synchronistically (however you want to look at it), it turned out to be a great place to stop for information.
A few minutes later I pulled into the parking area at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park (not to be confused with Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park located further down State Route 1). I didn’t have to pay for parking since I’d already paid for the Point Lobos State Natural Reserve ticket earlier that same day.
I grabbed my backpack with my snacks, camera, water, sunscreen, and other essentials and started out walking along the River Path (which as you can probably imagine is situated next to a river).
I stopped for a moment when I came across a stone walkway in the water. It turned out to be a nice spot to stop and take pictures. There is also a lot of shade in this area from the trees lining the river.
Just ahead you’ll find the Redwood Deck, a small area with a few giant redwood trees. It’s located right next to the Big Sur Lodge, which has a restaurant with an outdoor patio situated above the river. There was a bar out there too. I looked around but didn’t stop to eat. However, it looked like a nice place to grab a bite and relax either before or after a hike.
Pfeiffer Falls & Valley View Trail
The beginning of the Pfeiffer Falls trail is lined with redwood trees, which thin out and become sparse the further you venture on the trail. I love redwood trees, and getting to wander around in a grove of them always makes me feel like I’m somewhere very magical.
Although I started out on the Pfeiffer Falls Trail, the majority of the trail was closed, so I had to take the Valley View Trail which also led to Pfeiffer Falls. I encountered some mosquitos so I recommend wearing pants.
The Valley View Trail gains elevation at some points along the path making the trail a bit more challenging in those areas.
Eventually the Valley View Trail, which is an out-and-back hike, ended at Pfeiffer Falls. The waterfall was a lovely treat at the end of the hike. It was also fun to see bluebirds jumping around and playing in that area. It was a nice spot to take pictures too.
Valley View Overlook: After viewing Pfeiffer Falls you’ll head back the way you came and at the trail junction there is an option to take a path leading to the Valley View Overlook which is an additional elevation gain with the reward of sprawling views of the area. I didn’t have time for the overlook because there were other places I wanted to see, but know that it is an option if you’re on this trail.
Next it was on to my next stop—Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and McWay Falls
The trail to McWay Falls starts directly from the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park parking lot. It’s actually a very short trail which leads you through a tunnel, and voila…you arrive at one of the BEST views along the Big Sur route.
Bask in the view as you overlook a waterfall jutting off the side of a cliff with the backdrop of a sparkling cove that stretches out into the endless sea. The view from here is spectacular!
The turquoise waters along the Big Sur coastline are an incredible sight, and an iconic part of what exploring this area is all about. Visiting Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is totally worth the stop.
Tip: The Ewoldsen Trail also starts at the parking area and is about a 4.5-mile loop trail with redwood trees and a stream. It was closed when I was there, otherwise I would like to have spent time exploring this trail.
Note: At the present time the McWay Falls Trail to the waterfall overlook is closed; however, the Ewoldsen Trail is now open.
Stop to Eat Along the Big Sur Route
I stopped at Nepenthe which has a restaurant, as well as a separate café located just below the restaurant. The café was already closed for the day, so I stopped to look around at the indoor/outdoor restaurant which had more of an upscale vibe, and pricier seafood and meat options for dinner. I was seeking more of a casual dining experience and opted not to eat there. I walked around for a bit and it’s worth mentioning there are some really nice views of the ocean from both the restaurant and the café.
After a long day of hiking and exploring I was feeling more of a comfort food vibe and stumbled across The Big Sur River Inn Restaurant (note: a lot of places have the words “Big Sur” in them along this route which can get confusing if it’s your first time visiting. So just pay attention to the full name).
I ordered a quesadilla with grilled veggies, and while I was waiting for my food I wandered around the restaurant. Inside there was a small bar area, lots of seating, a cozy fireplace, large windows, and cool pictures showcasing the history of the restaurant and inn. There was outdoor patio seating as well, and access to a river that had large chairs in the water, and the coolest atmosphere.
This place is worth the stop just to look around. There is also a small market next door if you want to grab a cold drink or a snack.
Pacific Grove
There is an almost tangible quality to the thick ocean air of this coastal town, which boasts a mixture of charm and allure. Pacific Grove is a magical feeling city situated along the Monterey Peninsula.
I stayed at the Lighthouse Lodge and Cottages located adjacent to the cemetery and opted to stay in one of the cottage rooms which came with a daily chef-cooked breakfast. Having breakfast there was the highlight of each morning. The dining area felt more like a living room with a welcoming fireplace and cozy seating. I loved being able to sit and relax each morning, sipping on coffee, and enjoying a tasty breakfast.
Take a Bicycle Ride Around Town
The hotel I stayed at offered bicycle rentals, and it was a good way to explore the area and take in the sights.
Visit the Cemetery in Pacific Grove
It might sound strange to visit a cemetery, and it’s not something I usually do when visiting new places, but the cemetery in Pacific Grove has a certain vibe to it, and I heard there might be deer there, which is why I decided to visit it.
There were many gravestones from the 1800’s, and it was easy to spot them due to the style of headstone. They were interesting to examine and especially to read the names, many of which aren’t widely used at the present time.
As I was walking along, I saw a gravestone with my grandpa’s name. I smiled and thought of him. I walked down another row with flat gravestone markers on the ground that were only partially visible due to the overgrown grass. As I was walking I felt the urge to turn around and look at the gravestone I had just walked by (the urge was so subtle I could have easily dismissed it). As I looked down it was the name of my grandmother, which isn’t a common name at all. I smiled and knew it was a sign from spirit, and I was grateful for the communication.
As I continued walking along, I came to a golf course (the cemetery and golf course are connected). I saw several deer while I was wandering around, and it felt very magical, especially given the quiet backdrop of the cemetery and the inexplicable charge in the air of this historic coastal town.
Point Pinos Lighthouse
Constructed in the 1800’s Point Pinos Lighthouse is situated at the tip of the Monterey Peninsula in Pacific Grove, and is the oldest operating lighthouse on the West Coast. It is also full of history. The lighthouse is open limited hours per day and the cost to visit is $7 per adult.
Walk or Drive Down Ocean View Boulevard
There is a paved trail along Ocean View Boulevard in Pacific Grove that makes for an enjoyable walking route where you can explore the area further and see some incredible ocean views. You can also drive down Ocean View Boulevard to take in the scenery and stop anywhere that catches your eye for a better view.
Asilomar State Beach
Take a stroll along Asilomar State Beach, a mile-long stretch of sandy beach with rocky areas that you can explore. You can also walk along the Asilomar Coast Trail, a ¾ mile walking trail with beach access.
Monterey
Neighboring Pacific Grove is the City of Monterey, well known for things like the Monterey Bay Aquarium, 17-Mile Drive, and having plenty of sea lion sightings.
But First Pastries…
My first stop in Monterey was Alta Bakery and Café which was highly rated online. I ordered a matcha latte and a cranberry crumble muffin, both of which were tasty. The bakery is located in downtown Monterey at the Cooper Molera Adobe, which was originally built in the 1800’s and is supposedly haunted.
I asked the man working at the bakery counter if there were sea lions nearby. He told me if I walked out of the bakery and straight down the street I’d end up at the Old Fisherman’s Wharf where there were usually sea lions. From the bakery I headed along Alvarado Street. It was about a half of a mile (15-minute walk) to the Old Fisherman’s Wharf. On the way there were a lot of little shops to wander into, and I stopped in a couple of them. I mean how could I resist?
See the Sea Lions
Long before I could see the sea lions I could hear their barks ringing through the air. Following the sound I found myself at the Old Fisherman’s Wharf.
When I arrived there was a crowd of people in the viewing area. As I approached I was delighted by the sight of a variety of sea lions of all different colors and sizes sunbathing. Many were mere feet away from me (protected by a barrier) sleeping, playing, and barking happily. Others were hovering around in the water. It was fun to listen to them and watch them interact with each other. I would recommend stopping here if you get the chance.
Other notable activities I have previously done (but didn’t have time for on this trip) that are totally worth it—especially if you haven’t experienced them before are:
The 17-Mile Drive
Grab your coffee and a snack, or perhaps a picnic lunch to maximize your experience before heading out on the iconic 17-Mile Drive. This scenic drive along the Monterey Peninsula is one you don’t want to miss. You’ll encounter plenty of wildlife and notable landmarks like the Pebble Beach Golf Links (golf course), the Lone Cypress, and Spanish Bay just to name a few. The entrance fee to the 17-Mile Drive is $12.25 USD per vehicle, and you can stop along the way to take photos and admire the scenery.
There are a few ways to enter the 17-Mile Drive, but it’s recommended to start at the Pacific Grove Gate and exit at the Carmel Gate.
Monterey Bay Aquarium
The ultra well-known Monterey Bay Aquarium boasts over 200 exhibits with approximately 80,000 plants and animals. One exhibit that left a lasting impression on me when I visited was the jellyfish. Watching their translucent bodies glide across the water as they swam past me, glowing brightly in the dark was a memorable experience—I’d never seen anything quite like it. With so much diversity, the Monterey Bay Aquarium is a fun visit for both children and adults.
Every Story Has an End
When it was finally time for my Big Sur road trip to come to an end I didn’t want to say goodbye. I had so much fun exploring this area and discovering one hidden gem after another on this coastal expedition.
On the last morning at my Pacific Grove hotel after I’d packed up, I had one last breakfast there soaking in all the memories I’d made over the last few days, relishing in the feel of the unforgettable experiences I’d made across a variety of coastal towns.
Making that solo drive to the Big Sur region and exploring new places for the first time on my own allowed me to be very present with my experiences, and take them in in a richer and more profound way. I had moments that were just for me and experiences no one else will ever truly understand—even if I tell them about it, because they were filtered through me.
I came back different. One version of me left on the trip ready to experience the unknown, and another version of myself returned.
It’s interesting to think about how something that wasn’t a part of us, our life experiences, our repertoire of memories before is NOW there to draw from, and will always be. That’s one thing that I will always love about traveling. The experience redefines us, gives us new reference points, and offers yet another perspective about life.